Sensor malfunctions on Bullet EFI

For all Bullet EFI models (E5/C5/G5)

EFI Bullets, have a sophisticated ECU (Electronic Control unit). Big brands like to call this ECU the “on-board computer”. Well, there is an ECU on our Bullet, so our bullet is a …

Luckily, the ECU on the Bullet is simple and functional. You noticed already that a red indicator lamp glows when you put on the ignition switch. This is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Led).  It looks like a simple red light, but there is a sophisticated diagnose system behind.


Open the LH (Left Hand) triangle box behind the engine. In there you find the ECU (a black box with a lot of wires on). One of the wires is just a short end and seems to go nowhere. It is the open, single pole connector. Connect this open pole end with the mass (the chassis). The MIL offers you a blinking code which allows you to detect any defect sensor.

MIL blink code malfunction
MIL glows continuous. Engine starts but does not perform well.
Long 0 Short 6 Throttle position sensor
Long 0 Short 9 Manifold absolute pressure
Long 1 Short 1 Engine oil temperature
Long 1 Short 7 Lambda sensor
Long 4 Short 5 Lambda sensor heating
MIL glows continuous. Engine does not start.
Long 1 Short 5 Rollover sensor
Long 3 Short 3 Injector
Long 3 Short 7 Ignition coil
Long 4 Short 1 Fuel pump
Long 6 Short 6 Crankshaft position


Advice:  Make a small piece of electrical wire. Equip it with a connection to the open pole connector and a clamp to connect to a piece of the chassis nearby. Keep this piece of wire always with you.


7 thoughts on “Sensor malfunctions on Bullet EFI

    1. Check the connectors to the sensors: side stand, cranckshaft, roll-over, engine temperature,… One of the connectors might be loose. Also check the plug on the computer unit.


      1. I think the light also works when the oil pressure is too low. This can have different reasons. Running with a bad oil circuit is not recommended, so I would make a priority of finding the defect.


      2. ok thanks some times its out all day then it comes on then goes out.its out at the moment think its the lamba socket thanks again.jeff..


  1. Hey fellow thumper, what a great little post. I am Sree from United States(Indian origin American).
    Recently purchased a used Classic C5 and its not starting.
    First it was working while I am test driving, once I got it shipped, Initially it has started, from there its not starting. I have replaced a new battery, immediately it has worked then it stopped starting again.
    Tried electric start, kick start, friend pushing in the gear etc., Didnt work.
    I thought the issue is beyond that and then found from the manual that when I put the key on and kill switch on, the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) must be on for few minutes and then it should be off(as you have mentioned in your blog here). Which is not happening for me. Means, there is no activiy of MIL upon putting the kill switch and igniton both on. So, I am not sure what is the issue.

    I guess I need to follow your instructions(and the video below) to identify the MIL readings to isolate which sensor is not working.

    In any event, very good little post for the issue like I am facing now. Thanks again.

    “Advice: Make a small piece of electrical wire. Equip it with a connection to the open pole connector and a clamp to connect to a piece of the chassis nearby. Keep this piece of wire always with you.”

    These are called “alligator clip leads” in United States:
    There is a good youtube video describigng what you have nerrated here. :
    This video shows exactly what do you mean by the Advice in your post.


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